Historical Gurdwaras in Foreign Lands

PAKISTAN

Lahore

Lahore, capital of Pakistan Punjab, has been closely related to Sikh history and there are several Sikh shrines in and around the old city related to the first, fourth, fifth and the sixth Guru and to some well-known Sikhs and events.

1) Gurdwara Pahili Patshahi - The Gurdwara is dedicated to Guru Nanak Dev, who came to Lahore shortly before Babar reduced the city. Seth Duni Chand, a wealthy merchant received instructions and became his follower. A dharmsal established here was called Dhyaramsala Satiguru Nanak. It was developed into a Gurdwara inn Mohalla (ward) Sirianwala or Kakkezaiyan. It is a large building of brick and lime within which the marble paved sanctum used to be at one end of an L-shaped hall. The place is deserted since 1947.

2) Gurdwara Janam Asthan Ram Das - The Gurdwara in Chuna Mandi area stands at the site of Guru Ram Das's ancestral home and birth-place. It is a double-storey square building with a marbled courtyard in front. The ground floor hall has a single door. Its paneled façade is covered with white marble. The façade of the floor comprising an all-round gallery has a balcony with three windows in the center and oriel window on either side. The interior of the hall on the ground floor is paved with hexagonal marble tiles in black and white. The marbled sanctum used to be in the middle of the hall.

3) Diwan Khana - Diwan Khana (lit. sitting hall), also in Chuna Mandi area, was built by Guru Arjan Dev to be used as a congregation hall. Its building reconstructed by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, now bears House No. H/2145. It is a marble-floored hall with a marbled platform in the western part where Guru Granth Sahib used to be seated before the place was abandoned in 1947.

4) Baoli Sahib - was a well with steps leading down to water-level built by Guru Arjan Dev in Dabbi Bazar area. After the Guru's martyrdom it fell into disuse and got filled up. It was excavated by Maharaja Ranjit Singh who added a small sarovar to it. The site is now marked with a memorial gate.

5) Lal Khuhi - (lit. red well) near Mochi Gate, marks the site of Chandu's house where Guru Arjan Dev was held captive and tortured before his death. It is now enclosed with perforated grill screens of cement plaster.

6) GurdwaraDehra Sahib - Opposite the Lahore Fort is the Samadh of Guru Arjan Dev, who attained martyrdom near here in the waters of Ravi River, which used to flow past the Fort walls those days. The shrine is said to have been established by Guru Hargobind, who appointed Bhai Langaha as its caretaker. Its present building was raised by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The entrance gate with an ornamental flying marble arch opens on a marble-paved courtyard with the Nishan Sahib fixed on a marbled base to the right as one enters. The samadh proper across the courtyard is a square sanctuary with a verandah surrounding it and a fluted dome toped by a gilded pinnacle and Umbrella-shaped finial above it. Curved copings mounted with solid domelets run along the top which forms the base of the central dome. A smaller decorative dome adorns each corner of the coping. The perforated parapet on the façade is also decorated with a line of domelets and lantern on either end. The verandah front has three openings with cusped arches supported on slender, paired pillars. Other entrances, one on either side of the Central openings, have above their arches semi-domes projecting from the wall surface.

7) Gurdwara Chhevin Patshahi (Muzang) - Guru Hargobind during his visit to Lahore stayed at Muzang, then a separate village, three kilometers south of the old city but now a part of the expanded city. Gurdwara Chhevin Patshahi marking the site of the Guru's stay now stands on Temple Road Bhundpura. It is a double-storey, flat-roofed, rectangular hall on a raised plinth, an all-round gallery on the interior forming the first floor. Guru Granth Sahib used to be seated in the middle of the ground floor on a platform lined with white marble slabs inlaid with black in geometrical patterns. Many Sikhs had lost their lives trying to ward off an attack on the shrine by a Muslim mob on 11th August 1947. It had to be vacated soon after.

8) Guru Mangat (Guru Mangat) - The Gurdwara, two kilometres south of Lahore Cantt Railway Station, was visited by Guru Hargobind on his way back from Muzang. Gurdwara Chhevin Patshahi southwest of the village commemorated the site of the Guru's stay. It was housed in a two-storey domed tower which now stands deserted in a dilapidated condition with its ancillary buildings razed to the ground.

9) Gurdwara Chhevin Patshahi (Amar Siddhu) - From Guru Mangat, Guru Hargobind came to Amar Siddhu village 13 kilometres southeast of Lahore. Gurdwara Chhevin Patshai marking the site of Guru's stay, a furlong east of the village, was abandoned following the Partition. Its building, constructed in 1922 with donations from Sir Ganga Ram of Lahore, comprises a square sanctum surrounded by a verandah. The sanctum is topped by a domed pavilion. Amar Siddhu is about 2.5 kilometres east of Kot Lakhpat railway station on the Lahore-Multan section of Pakistan railway.

10) Gurdwara Dera Chahal (Chahal) - Chahal also called Dera Chahal or Chahal Dera, was the ancestral village of Guru Nanak Dev's mother, Mata Tripta, and the birth-place of his sister, Bebe Nanaki. The Guru himself often visited it. Gurdwara Dera Chahal marking the site of the house of Mata Tripta's parents inside the village was affiliated to the S.G.P.C. before 1947. Its present condition is not known.

11) Gurdwara Chhevin Patshahi (Dhilwan) - Dhilwan is a small village, five kilometers east of Barki and not very far from Indo-Pakistan border. Guru Hargobind arrived here from Jhallian village during a preaching tour of the area. Gurdwara Chhevin Patshahi commemorating the visit, abandoned since 1947, was in the south-eastern outskirts of the village.

12) Gurdwara Rori Sahib (Jahman) - Jahman is a large village under Barki police circle in Lahore district and is close to Indo-Pakistan border opposite Dal-Van in India. Guru Nanak Dev is said to have visited it thrice on his way to Chahal and back. One Bhai Naria and several Jain Bhavras of this village became the Guru's disciples. He used to stay near a pond east of the village where a commemorative shrine was later established. It was known as Rori Sahib. The pond was subsequently lined into a sarovar and the shrine developed into Gurdwara Rori Sahib Patshahi Pahili. It has a magnificent building constructed on a model which has come to be known as standard Sikh architecture. It has a square sanctum in the middle of a square two-storey hall, the first floor consisting of an all round gallery. The hall on the ground floor has four doors, one on each side and first flor has five windows on each side. The second floor is a domed pavilion covering the sanctum below. From the door in the rear, steps lead down to the Sarovar.

13) Gurdwara Lahura Sahib (Ghawindi) - Ghawindi village, also under Barki police circle in Lahore district, is hardly one kilometer from Indo-Pakistan border, opposite Khalra Check Post in India. Guru Nanak Dev came here from Jahman and stayed under a Lahura or Lasurha tree. At the time there was a Banjara (traveling trader) colony near the village. The Banjaras were having a feast to celebrate the brith of a male child in one of the families. Bhai Mardana, Guru Nanak Dev's constant companion, went there with the Guru's permission in the hope of having a good meal, but so absorbed were the Banjaras in their festivities that no one cared to notice Mardana, who came disappointed. The child died during the following night, and the Banjaras rejoicing gave way to wailing. Guru Nanak Dev went to console them and explained to them how birth, growth, decay and death were all in God's Will, which must be bowed to and borne with patience and equanimity. It is believed that the Guru's hymn entitled pahier in Sri Rag was recited on this occasion. A shrine established in honour of the Guru came to be known as Lahura Sahib after the tree under which the Guru had stayed. Gurdwara Lahura Sahib was housed in a large haveli entered through a gate tastefully designed with cut brick work and carrying a wooden door. A congregational fair used to be held here annually in September-October, until 1947.

14) Gurdwara Chhevin Patshahi (Hudiara) - Hudiara or Hadiara village, also under Barki police station, is 20 kilometres from Lahore along the Lahore-Khalra road. Guru Hargobind stayed here on his way back from Lahore to Amritsar. Gurdwara Chhevin Patshahi commemorating the holy visit was inside the village. It was housed in a small, beautiful, double-storey square building toped by a pinnacled, fluted lotus dome which covered the entire roof decorated with wide arched copings on the sides and small domelets of flower-pot design on the corners. The ground floor façade had decorative pilasters and and umbrella-like shade over the door. The first floor had on each side an open door flanked by door-size niches with cusped arches. Besides routine prayers and gurpurbs, the major function of the year at Gurdwara at Hudiara used to be its Maghi Mela, a congregational fair held on the first of ther Bikrami month of Magh (mid-January). All this came to an abrupt end with the Partition of 1947.

15) Padhana - Padhana or Bharhana as it is usually pronounced, is another big village of Barki police circle in Lahore district very close to the Indo-Pakistan border. This village too was consecrated by Guru Hargobind, who stayed here during his journey from Lahore to Amritsar. Here the Guru had a discourse with Jalhan, an affluent farmer well-known in the area for his piety as well as worldly wisdom. The Gurdwara commemorative of the Guru's visit located inside the village comprises a three-storey, square, domed sanctum in the middle of a two-storey, square hall. The second floor is a pavilion. The dome above is almost like the one at Hudiara. The Gurdwara was abandoned in 1947. That it was pillaged by mob is evidenced by the absence of all doors and windows. The doors on the ground floor have been closed with masonry.

16) Gurdwara Patshahi Chhevin (Rampur Kalan) - Rampur Kalan is yet another village in Lahore district, close to the international border between India and Pakistan, which had a historical Gurdwara dedicated to Guru Hargobind who is believed to have once visited it. This Gurdwara Patshahi Chhevin in the outskirts of the village had also got to be vacated in 1947. Its present condition is not known.

17) Gurdwara Tisri Patshahi Jhari (lit. bush) Sahib (Targa) - Targa village is six kilometres northeast of the tahsil town of Kasur in Lahore district. Guru Amar Das had traveled thus far at the invitation of a Sikh Sangat of Kadivind, a village next to Targa, and encamped in the jungle about one kilometer west of Targa. The sangat of Kadivind, Targa and other neighbouring villages thronged to see the Guru and listen to his sermons. The shrine established here was called Gurdwara Tisri Patshahi Jhari Sahib. An annual religious fair was held here to celebrate Baisakhi. The Gurdwara was abandoned in 1947 and its fate after that is not known. Sikh Shrines in West Pakistan, published by Pakistan Government in 1962 makes no mention of Targa.

18) Gurdwara Mal Sahib (Kanganpur) - Kanganpur is a large village and railway station along the Kasur-Lodhran section of Pakistan Railway. It falls in Chunian tahsil of Lahore district. When Guru Nanak Dev and Bhai Mardana arrived here, the villagers were rude to them and did not let them stay in the village. The Guru, however, blessed them saying "Vasde raho' (May you live long here), and proceeded to the next village where they were received warmly and served hospitably. On leaving the following morning the Guru uttered, "Ujjar Jao (May you disperse). Bhai Mardana was perplexed and asked why the Guru blessed the bad ones and cursed the good people of the second village. The Guru explained that the bad ones were better confined to where they were, lest they should carry and spread their badness aboard. On the other hand, the good ones would spread goodness wherever they go. A shrine was later established near the mal tree where they had halted at Kanganpur. It was called Gurdwara Mal Sahib. Congregation used to he held here on the first of every Bikrami month and the one on the first of Chet (mid-March) became a largely attended religious fair. This Gurdwara had been affiliated to the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee when it was vacated in 1947 as a result of the Partition.

19) Gurdwara Dukh Nivaran Sahib (Jambar Kalan) - Jambar Kalan village about eight kilimetres north of Chhanga-Manga railway station on Lahore-Multan section of Pakistan Railway lies in Sarai Mughal police circle in Chunian tahsil of Lahore district. Jamber and his brother Jatri, both Sikhs of the Gurus, had a serious dispute about the boundary between their respective estates. Guru Arjan Dev during his tour of the region came to Jambar and brought about an amicable settlement. Several others embraced Sikhism. The commemorative shrine here came to be called Gurdwara Dukh Nivaran Sahib Panjvin Patshahi. It had a neat little building with a double-storey, square, domed sanctum surrounded by a verandah on the ground floor. The first floor too had a circumambulatory passage corresponding to the verandah below, both floors having on each side five openings with cusped arches supported on double cylindrical pillars. The Gurdwara had 150 acres of land attached to it and was administered by the S.G.P.C. through a local committee before it was abandoned as a sequel to the Partition of 1947.

20) Gurdwara Guru Arjan Dev Ji (Bahirwal) - From Jambar, Guru Arjan De came to Bahirwal, about two kilimetres northwest of the former village. Here Bhai Hema, a confirmed bachelor, became his disciple. The Guru impressed upon him the virtues of grihasth (householders's life). Bhai Hema later married, raised a family and preached Sikhism in the region. The shrine established by him at Bahirwal came to be called Gurdwara Guru Arjan Dev Ji. Its latest building constructed during the 1930s inside a walled compound comprised a flat-roofed rectangular hall with a verandah in front. The Gurdwara was affiliated to the S.G.P.C., who managed kit thorough a local committee, until 1947. Its present condition is uncertain because Sikh Shrines in West Pakistan, makes no mention of it.

21) Gurdwara Sangat Sahib or Gurdwara Bhai Pheru (Bhari Pheru) - Bhai Pheru whose real name was Sangatia, was an eminent Sikh contemporary of the 7th, 8th, 9th and the 10th Guru. He was appointed masand of Nakka region (western part of Lahore district) and was honoured by Guru Gobind Singh with the title of 'Sachchi Darhi' (lit. true beard) and Sangat Sahib'. He had his dera (abode or seminary) near Mien Ke Maur village in Chunian tahsil of Lahore district. This came to be known as Gurdwara Sangat Sahib or Gurdwara Bhai Pheru. About 2,000 acres of land was attached to it during the Sikh Rule. The habitation that grew around the shrine also came to be called Bhai Pheru. The place became widely known during the Gurdwara Reform Movement (1920-25) when the Akalis launched a morcha (agitation) to liberate it from the control of mahants. Its possession was ultimately granted to the S.G.P.C. by a tribunal in June 1931. It had to be abandoned in 1947. The management of the shrine and the attached estate is now under the local Panchayat Committee.

22) Gurdwara Chhota Nanakiana (Manga) - Manga, a village about 40 kilometres southwest of Lahore along the Lahore-Multan highway, was once visited by Guru Nanak Dev. The shrine established in his honour was called Chhota Nanakiana. Guru Hargobind also visited it during his journey back from Kashmir via Nankana Sahib. About 135 acres of land was attached to it during the Sikh Rule. It was located outside the village to the east of it. Its building at the time of its vacation of 1947 comprised a flat-roofed square hall with a verandah all around it. A vast sarovar was at the back of the Gurdwara. It was managed by the Shirmoni Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee through a local committee.

23) Gurdwara Pahili Patshahi (Dipalpur) - Dipalpur is tahsil town in Sahiwal district. Guru Nanak Dev visited it on his way back from Pakpattan. He stayed under a pipal tree in the sout-eastern outskirts of the old town. He is said to have cured here a leper, Nauranga alias Nuri, whose grave can be seen near the old pipal tree which still exists near Gurdwara Pahili Patshahi also called Nanakiana, established to commemorate the Guru's visit. The Gurdwara had a double-storey, rectangular flat-roofed building. On the ground floor was a hall with a verandah in front. The verandah had six openings under pointed arches. The first floor which also covered the verandah had six windows flanked by pilasters. The Gurdwara was abandoned as a sequel to the Partition of 1947.

24) Gurdwara Nanaksar (Harappa) - Harappa is an ancient pre-Aryan town in Sahiwal district. Guru Nank Dev visited it during his travels. He is said to have advised the local chief to be kind and just to his subjects. He stayed near a jand tree outside the town where a commemorative shrine, Gurdwara Nanaksar was established later. The Gurdwara had a large complex of buildings and a sarovar. The sanctum was two-storey hexagonal structure with a ribbed dome on top. A square hall enclosed it at the ground floor. Rows of rooms with verandahs in front flanked the entrance to the compound housing the sanctum. A three-day congregational fair used to be held on 1st - 3rd Chet (Mid-March) every year until the Partition of 1947.

25) Tulambha (Makhdumpur) - Tulambha or Talumbha is renamed Makhdumpur, but the old name is still popular. Makhdumpur is railway station on the Lahore-Multan section of Pakistan Railway. When Guru Nank Dev visited Talumbha, there lived one Sajjan, a thug who had built a temple and a mosque along the highway to attract Hindu and Muslim travelers who needed a night's lodging. During the night, Sajjan used to kill them and rob their belongings. Guru Nanak Dev and Bhai Mardana also stayed in Sajjan's inn. The thug received them warmly, fed them and suggested that tired as they must be, they should retire to sleep. Guru Nanak Dev, pick up his rebeck, and he sang to its accompaniment a hymn which touched Sajjan's heart-strings. He fell at the Guru's feet, confessed his past sins and sought instruction. The Guru told him to give away all the looted property in charity and live a virtuous life in future. He also advised Sajjan to convert his inn into a true dharmsal. Sajjan became a follower of the Guru. Later, during the time of Guru Har Rai, Bhai Jodh, masand of this area, lived at Tulambha. It was his descendants who first established a Gurdwara dedicated to Guru Nanak Dev in 1913. It was abandoned